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  • Piedmontese Masche: witches and legends of Piedmont

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    Today I would like to take you to a “dark” and fascinating place: the world of the masche! But what exactly are they? The masche are mysterious figures from Piedmontese folklore, representing witches or female spirits endowed with magical powers.

    The word “masca” probably derives from the Vulgar Latin “masca,” which means witch or evil spirit. The first written accounts date back to the Middle Ages when the masche were both feared and respected for their supernatural powers. They are often described as elderly women capable of transforming into animals, flying, and casting spells. They can be both benevolent and malevolent, depending on the stories and circumstances. They can heal diseases but also cause misfortunes and ailments.

    The Masca Micilina: The Story

    Numerous popular legends tell of masche living in isolated places like forests and mountains, but one of the best-known stories is that of Masca Micilina, a witch who lived in the Langhe and terrorized the villagers with her curses. She is one of the most famous and feared masche of the Langhe! Her story has been passed down from generation to generation and continues to captivate lovers of legends and folklore.

    The Legend

    Micilina was an elderly woman who lived isolated from the rest of the village, in a small house in the woods. It was said that she was endowed with extraordinary magical powers and could transform into various animals, such as black cats and wolves, to scare and confuse the villagers.

    The legend tells that Micilina was capable of casting curses and spells, causing diseases, poor harvests, and other disasters. The locals were careful to avoid her dwelling and tried never to cross her path.

    Micilina was feared not only for her powers but also for her vengeful nature. It is said that she severely punished anyone who dared to offend her or did not comply with her requests. Among her most feared curses: sudden illnesses, agricultural misfortunes, love or jealousy spells… beware of making her angry!

    Protections Against Micilina

    To protect themselves from Micilina’s curses, the inhabitants of the Langhe adopted various rituals and customs. Among these, the use of iron objects, considered effective against witches, and the creation of amulets with aromatic herbs such as garlic and rosemary. Some also practiced prayers and religious rituals to invoke divine protection.

    The End of Micilina

    According to the legend, the end of Micilina was as mysterious as her life. Some tales say she was captured and sentenced to death by exasperated villagers, while other versions claim she disappeared into thin air, dissolving into the wind like a true spirit. The ending, write it as you like!

    Events Dedicated to the Masche

    Masche Festival in Rifreddo

    One of the most famous events is the Masche Festival in Rifreddo, held every year around June 24th in the small town of Rifreddo, in the province of Cuneo. This festival is entirely dedicated to the masche and offers a full immersion into the local tradition.

    Shows and performances: During the festival, numerous theatrical performances recreate the stories of the masche, with actors in traditional costumes.
    Guided tours: There are guided tours that take visitors to the most suggestive places linked to the legends of the masche.
    Workshops: The craft workshops allow participants to create amulets and typical objects of the tradition.

    La Notte delle Masche in Sauze d’Oulx

    Another important event is La Notte delle Masche in Sauze d’Oulx, in the province of Turin. This event usually takes place in summer, around August 16th, and attracts both locals and tourists.

    Night walks: Night walks in the woods are organized, accompanied by tales about the masche and their legends.
    Historical reenactments: The evening includes historical reenactments and theatrical performances that tell the stories of the most famous masche.
    Music and dance: Folk music concerts and traditional dances help create a magical atmosphere.

    Witch Festival in Triora

    Although Triora is located in Liguria, the Witch Festival in this village is closely related to Piedmontese folklore and the masche. Triora is famous for the witch trials of the 16th century, and the festival attracts many visitors.

    Exhibitions and conferences: The festival includes exhibitions on the history of witches and conferences with experts in folklore and history.
    Themed markets: Craft markets offer products related to the tradition of the masche, such as amulets, medicinal herbs, and iron artifacts.
    Events for children: Workshops and activities for children to introduce them to the world of the masche in a playful way.

    Patronal Festivals Dedicated to the Masche

    Feast of Sant’Anna in Monforte d’Alba (Province of Cuneo) at the end of July.
    Feast of San Giacomo in Castell’Alfero (Province of Asti), on July 25th.
    Feast of San Lorenzo in Ostana (Province of Cuneo), on August 10th.

    If you wish to participate in any or even just one of these events, I recommend contacting local tourist offices or associations such as “La Masca in Langa” or “Cultura e natura” (for Monferrato) for exact dates.

    Happy witches to all and… see you next time!

  • The Langhe and Monferrato Truffle Fair, let’s get ready!!!

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    Autumn in Piedmont is a magical time, and among its undisputed stars is the truffle, the precious “white gold” of Italian cuisine. The Langhe and Monferrato, lands of food and wine excellence, host fairs dedicated to this extraordinary product of the earth every year, attracting enthusiasts and gourmands from all over the world.

    The Langhe: The International Alba White Truffle Fair

    In the beautiful city of Alba, the heart of the Langhe, one of the most important global events dedicated to the white truffle takes place: the International Alba White Truffle Fair, which will be held from October 12 to December 8, 2024, and is truly an unmissable event for truffle lovers.

    This fair has ancient roots and certainly represents a moment of celebration and self-celebration of the food and wine culture and traditions of the Langhe. The city comes alive with markets, tastings, show cooking, and cultural events! It offers a unique experience to those who visit! So, if you have never been there, now is the right time to plan.

    The World Market of the Alba White Truffle is one of the main moments of the fair, where the truffle hunters and merchants present the best specimens of white truffle, certified by the Quality Commission experts. This is where connoisseurs can purchase the finest truffles and participate in charity auctions every Saturday and Sunday during the fair period.

    Tasting, buying, and savoring the truffle is, of course, also an opportunity to visit the Langhe (even if you’ve already seen them, it’s always worth it 😊) and to participate in events such as vineyard walks, winery visits, and food and wine evenings.

    And up to this point, most of what has been said is already well-known!

    Truffle in Monferrato

    Let’s add an unexpected stop that will surprise you: Monferrato.

    Because that’s exactly how it is, even if it’s not often talked about, Monferrato also celebrates the truffle with numerous events, including the National Truffle Fair of Moncalvo (the smallest city in Italy) and the fairs held in the province of Asti.

    Moncalvo hosts one of the oldest truffle fairs in Monferrato, known for its authentic atmosphere and the quality of the truffles displayed. You will find a great selection of white and black truffles and can taste them in the local restaurants, of course.

    In the province of Asti, truffle fairs multiply, with events held in various locations, including Montiglio Monferrato (which I mention because it is dear to us). These fairs, although less well-known than the one in Alba, offer more intimate and, as I said before, authentic experiences.

    Among the most important events, we certainly find Murisengo, where the National Trifola d’Or Truffle Fair will be held from November 13 to 20, 2024, and San Sebastiano Curone from November 20 to 27 with the National White and Black Truffle Fair.

    I also recommend visiting and dining in the local restaurants participating in the “Truffle Tables,” where you can enjoy special truffle-based menus throughout the season​ (https://www.visitlmr.it)​ (Itineraries in Taste).

    Here are a few names:

    Ristorante Il Cascinale Nuovo (Isola d’Asti): famous for its refined Piedmontese cuisine, offers dishes such as tajarin with white truffle.
    Ristorante I Caffi (Acqui Terme): offers innovative cuisine rooted in tradition, perfect for enjoying truffle paired with local products.
    Ristorante San Marco (Canelli): here you can find tasting menus that highlight white truffle in combination with the best local wines.

    Remember, however, these are just a few examples; the list of participating restaurants is really extensive! For a complete and updated list, I recommend visiting the official website of the truffle events in the region​ (Itineraries in Taste).

    The official website for truffle-related events, particularly for the International Alba White Truffle Fair, is fieradeltartufo.org.

    For truffle fairs in Monferrato, you can find updated and detailed information on Alexala, which is the official website of the local tourist reception and promotion agency of Alessandria and Monferrato.

    May the truffle be with you and… until next time!

  • Verduno and Pelaverga

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    Verduno

    In the heart of the Langhe, Verduno is a hidden gem of Piedmont, renowned not only for its breathtaking landscape, but also for a very special wine: Pelaverga.

    Verduno is a small hilltop village that offers a panoramic view of the Langhe and, with its narrow alleys, stone houses and tranquil atmosphere, seems to have stood still in time, keeping its authenticity intact.

    Strolling through its streets is like stepping back in history, immersed in the beauty and tranquillity of times gone by.

    Pelaverga: a unique wine

    Pelaverga di Verduno, also known as Verduno Pelaverga or Verduno DOC, is a unique and rare red wine, produced exclusively in this small corner of Piedmont.

    This indigenous grape variety has a history dating back to the 17th century and, although it was almost forgotten, today it is experiencing a new renaissance thanks to the efforts of local winegrowers.

    Pelaverga is distinguished by its light ruby red colour and its spicy aromas, very reminiscent of white pepper, together with notes of red fruits and flowers.

    It is fresh and lively on the palate, with light tannins and a pleasant acidity that makes it perfect to be enjoyed young.

    This wine pairs beautifully with traditional Piedmontese dishes, such as raw meat all’albese, tajarin and fresh cheeses.

    uva pelaverga
    vino pelaverga verduno

    The history of Pelaverga wine from Verduno

    The history of Pelaverga is closely linked to that of Verduno. Legend has it that it was brought to the area by the Blessed Valfrè in 1631. For centuries, the production of Pelaverga was limited to family and local use until, in the 1970s, a few winegrowers decided to recover this ancient vine, giving rise to the denomination Verduno Pelaverga DOC in 1995.

    A visit to Verduno is not complete without a stop at one of the local wine cellars. Here, the winegrowers are always ready to welcome visitors, offering tastings and guided tours of the vineyards. Among the most renowned wine cellars are Fratelli Alessandria, Bel Colle and Comm. G.B. Burlotto, all of which are committed to promoting Pelaverga.

    In addition to wine, Verduno also offers a rich gastronomic experience. Local restaurants and trattorias offer typical Piedmontese dishes prepared with fresh, seasonal ingredients that pair well with the wines of the area.

    pelaverga
    cantina verduno pelaverga

    Verduno and its Pelaverga represent a perfect blend of history, tradition and innovation. Discovering this village and tasting its wine means immersing yourself in an authentic world, made of passion, dedication and love for the land.

    If you are a fan of truly special wines or are simply looking for an evocative destination, Verduno is one not to be missed.

  • The gianduiotto, who can live without it?

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    History of Gianduiotto

    Today I will talk to you about the gianduiotto, a famous chocolate from Turin with a fascinating history and a long tradition.

    The gianduiotto was born in Turin in the 19th century, during the Napoleonic period. Its invention is closely tied to the commercial restrictions imposed by Napoleon’s Continental Blockade, which made it difficult to import cocoa. To overcome the scarcity of cocoa, Turin chocolatiers began mixing it with more readily available local ingredients.

    invenzione gianduiotto

    In 1852, chocolatier Michele Prochet had the idea of mixing cocoa with hazelnuts from the Langhe region, renowned for their quality. This innovation reduced the amount of cocoa needed and created a new type of chocolate called “gianduia”.

    Later, in 1865, during the Carnival of Turin, Prochet and Caffarel officially presented the gianduiotto, a chocolate with a distinctive boat-like shape, wrapped in golden paper.

    Michele Prochet
    Maschera carnevale Gianduiotto

    Ingredienti

    The gianduiotto is still produced today following traditional methods. The main ingredients are:

    These hazelnuts are roasted and finely ground into a creamy paste that is mixed with cocoa and sugar. The resulting paste is then molded into the characteristic triangular shape.

    The gianduiotto has become a symbol of Turin and its chocolate-making tradition.

    It is closely associated with the Carnival mask “Gianduja”, a popular character from the Piedmontese commedia dell’arte, representing cheerfulness and kindness. This association has helped root the gianduiotto in the culture and traditions of Turin.

    lavorazione gianduiotto

    Gianduiotto Today

    Today, the gianduiotto is appreciated worldwide and produced by various chocolatiers, both artisanal and industrial.

    Despite modern techniques, many producers keep the tradition alive, ensuring the quality and authenticity of this delicious chocolate.

    The gianduiotto represents a perfect example of how creativity and adaptation to circumstances can give birth to new products that become an integral part of the culture and tradition of a place.

    Where to Find Gianduiotto: Best Chocolate Shops

    Turin is famous for its excellent artisanal chocolate shops, many of which are renowned for producing gianduiotti. Here are some of the best artisanal chocolate shops in Turin worth visiting:

    1. Guido Gobino (Via Lagrange 1, 10123 Turin)
    Guido Gobino is one of the most famous chocolate shops in Turin. Known for its attention to the quality of raw materials and innovation in production techniques, Gobino offers a wide range of chocolates, including its famous gianduiotti. Their version of gianduiotto features a high percentage of Langhe hazelnuts

    Gianduiotti confezione guido gobino
    cioccolaterie Peyrano

    2. Peyrano (Corso Moncalieri 47, 10133 Turin)
    Peyrano is a historic name in the Turin chocolate scene. Founded in 1915, this chocolate shop is known for its tradition and the quality of its products. Peyrano’s gianduiotti are appreciated for their delicacy and balanced taste.

    3. Caffarel (Via Gianavello 41, 10062 Luserna San Giovanni, Turin)
    Caffarel is one of the oldest Italian chocolate companies, founded in 1826. Although it is now a globally recognized brand, it continues to produce gianduiotti using traditional methods. Caffarel is particularly famous for contributing to the invention of the gianduiotto.

    4. Giacosa (Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange 34, 10123 Turin)
    Giacosa is an artisanal chocolate shop that combines tradition and innovation. With a wide range of high-quality products, Giacosa’s gianduiotti are highly appreciated for their authentic flavor and creamy texture.

    5. Avidano (Piazza Cavour 17, 10024 Moncalieri, Turin)
    Avidano is another excellent artisanal chocolate shop in Turin. Founded in 1956, Avidano stands out for its use of high-quality ingredients and attention to detail. Their gianduiotti are made with top-quality Piedmontese hazelnuts and high-quality cocoa.

    6. Cioccolateria Piemontese (Corso Regina Margherita 151, 10122 Turin)
    Specializing in artisanal chocolate, this chocolate shop offers a wide range of chocolates, including traditional gianduiotti. The quality of the ingredients and artisanal processing make their products particularly valuable.

    These chocolate shops represent the best of Turin’s chocolate-making tradition and offer visitors the chance to taste authentic artisanal gianduiotti, made with passion and attention to detail. If you are a chocolate lover, these shops will offer you delicious and unique experiences, making your visit to Turin even more special! What are you waiting for?

    See you next time!

    Cioccolataio

  • Alta Langa wine: a journey between 250 and 700 meters

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    Alta Langa wine: the classic method sparkling wine of the Langhe.

    Alta Langa wine represents one of the excellent wines of Piedmont, which, as I have told you a billion times before, is a region renowned for its winemaking tradition.

    We have seen the red wines such as Nebbiolo and the whites, today we turn our attention to what, trivially, can be named sparkling wine. This appellation, “Alta Langa,” is dedicated exclusively to high-quality sparkling wines, produced by the classic method.

    But why is Alta Langa so special? Let’s understand its history, characteristics and reasons!

    The history of Alta Langa has roots dating back to the 19th century. In those years, the winemakers of the region began experimenting with the production of sparkling wines using the classic method, the same used in Champagne.

    With effort and commitment, in an area where red wines dominated, in recent decades Alta Langa has finally received the recognition it deserves, obtaining the DOCG (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin) in 2011.

    Territory and Grapes

    The hills of Alta Langa, located between the provinces of Asti, Alessandria, and Cuneo, offer a unique terroir. The vineyards are planted at an altitude between 250 and 700 meters, benefiting from an ideal microclimate for the cultivation of quality grapes. The main grape varieties used for Alta Langa are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, two varieties that express themselves best in this territory.

    Production Method

    Alta Langa wine is produced exclusively with the classic method which involves bottle fermentation. This long and meticulous process requires at least 30 months of aging on the lees for non-vintage wines and 36 months for vintage wines. This long aging period gives the wine unparalleled complexity and finesse.

    Organoleptic Characteristics

    Alta Langa sparkling wines are distinguished by their elegance and complexity. On the nose, they offer a rich bouquet of floral, fruity, and toasted notes, with hints of fresh bread and almond. On the palate, they are fresh and lively, with a solid structure and remarkable persistence. The fine and creamy bubbles complete the sensory experience, making each sip a unique pleasure.

    Gastronomic Pairings

    Thanks to their versatility, Alta Langa wines lend themselves to numerous gastronomic pairings. They are perfect as an aperitif, accompanied by snacks and appetizers, but also pair well with more structured dishes such as risottos, white meats, and fish. Try an Alta Langa with a saffron risotto (perhaps our very own from Cascina Facelli!) or with a sea bass fillet: you’ll fall in love!

    Alta Langa wine is an oenological gem that deserves to be discovered and appreciated. Its quality makes it an undisputed protagonist of the Piedmontese wine scene. If you are a lover of sparkling wines, you cannot miss the opportunity to taste an Alta Langa and be fascinated by its elegance and complexity.

    Winemakers of Alta Langa

    Here are some of the best wineries producing excellent Alta Langa sparkling wines:

    • Enrico Serafino Founded in 1878, Enrico Serafino is one of the oldest wineries in Piedmont. Their production of Alta Langa stands out for its elegance and complexity, with labels such as “Zero” and “Brut”.
    • Contratto Contratto is a historic winery with a long tradition in the production of classic method sparkling wines in Canelli and is, for its beauty, a UNESCO heritage site. Their Alta Langa wines are renowned for their quality and attention to detail.
    • Giulio Cocchi Cocchi is famous for its wines and sparkling wines. Giulio Cocchi’s Alta Langa wines are highly appreciated for their freshness and the fineness of the bubbles.
    • Ettore Germano Ettore Germano is a winery known for the quality of all its wines. The Alta Langa sparkling wines produced here are no exception and are examples of refinement and complexity.
    • Marcalberto As I mentioned in another blog, Marcalberto is our favorite winery, a boutique winery located in Santo Stefano Belbo. Founded by brothers Marco and Alberto, this winery focuses exclusively on the production of classic method sparkling wines, with a strong commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Marcalberto adopts a meticulous approach in the production of its sparkling wines. The winery’s philosophy is based on a great respect for the territory and tradition, combining modern techniques with classic methods to obtain wines of excellent quality. The winery primarily uses Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for its Alta Langa sparkling wines, carefully selecting the grapes from their best vineyards chosen for their ability to fully express the characteristics of the terroir. Additionally, it is committed to sustainability and responsible vineyard management, using agricultural practices that respect the environment and promote biodiversity.
      The jewel of their Alta Langa bouquet is definitely the Nature. I won’t say more about this sparkling wine, look for it and taste it… and then let me know!

    In short, the Marcalberto winery represents one of the excellences in the production of Alta Langa sparkling wines, thanks to the dedication and passion of its founders. If you are a lover of top-quality sparkling wines, Marcalberto’s wines are definitely worth trying. Each bottle is a unique experience that reflects the richness of the Langhe territory and the artisanal mastery of the winery.

    These wineries represent some of the best options for buying a bottle of Alta Langa.

    Each has its own interpretation of this sparkling wine, offering a range of flavors and aromas that will satisfy even the most discerning palates.

    Until next time!

  • Turin? Why not!

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    Dalle Langhe a Torino

    From Langhe to Turin, why not?

    If you are staying in the Langhe and plan to linger a few more days, Turin is a feasible destination. From our b&b in Bossolasco Cascina Facelli you can reach it in just over an hour and a half.
    But why visit Turin?

    Simple, it is a capital city on a human scale, full of history, culture and beauty.

    I leave you with a few hints that you will surely find interesting and lesser known!

    Turin's historic cafes

    Let’s start by dwelling on the legendary historic cafes that not only offer high quality food and drinks, but also a dip into the past, an atmosphere steeped in history and culture, allowing for a unique and fascinating experience in the beautiful setting of Turin.

    • Caffè Torino: Located in Piazza San Carlo, this café is one of the oldest in the city, open since 1903. It is known for its elegant décor and refined atmosphere.
    • Caffè Mulassano: founded in 1879 and located in Piazza Castello, it is famous for inventing the tramezzino. The Art Nouveau interior is a real gem.
    • Caffè Fiorio: opened in 1780 on Via Po, it was a favorite haunt of nobles, intellectuals and politicians of the time. Fiorio’s ice cream is particularly renowned.
    • Caffè Al Bicerin: founded in 1763 and located in Piazza della Consolata, it is famous for its Bicerin, a hot drink made with coffee, chocolate and milk cream. Cavour was also a frequent visitor.
    • Caffè San Carlo: Located in Piazza San Carlo, this café dates back to 1822 and offers a refined ambience with frescoes and elegant decorations. It was frequented by illustrious figures such as Nietzsche.
    • Café Platti: on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, this café opened in 1870 and has an elegant and cozy atmosphere. It was a meeting place for intellectuals and artists.

    Stores craft stores in Turin

    Let’s move on to small craft stores, shall we? Turin has a long tradition of craftsmanship, and visiting its historic workshops is a wonderful way to discover local authenticity and craftsmanship. Here are a few not to be missed:

    • Gianfranco Ferraris:
      Address: Via Maria Vittoria 20/D
      Specialty: Jewelry and watchmaking. Ferraris is known for his custom watches and unique handcrafted jewelry.
    • Rivets:
      Address: 8 St. Thomas St.
      Specialty: Making handcrafted fountain pens. The store is a must for writing enthusiasts and collectors.
    • Guido Gobino:
      Address: Via Cagliari 15/B
      Specialty: Chocolateria. Gobino is famous for its gianduiotto and other high-quality chocolate treats.
    • Gertosio:
      Address: 14 Via Carlo Alberto
      Specialty: Pastry and chocolate shop. This historic store is renowned for its traditional chocolates and pastries.
    • Marchesi Typographic School:
      Address: 19 Andrea Doria Street
      Specialty: Typography. This historic store offers handcrafted and custom printing products.
    • Defilippis Pasta Factory:
      Address: 39 Lagrange St.
      Specialty: Fresh Pasta. Defilippis is famous for its artisanal pasta, prepared using traditional methods.
    • Latteria Bera:
      Address: Via San Secondo 13
      Specialty: Dairy products. This historic dairy offers high-quality cheeses and dairy products.
    • Mara dei Boschi:
      Address: 30/H Berthollet St.
      Specialty: Artisan ice cream shop. Mara dei Boschi is famous for its ice creams made with high-quality ingredients and traditional techniques.

    Secret Turin... the Underground.

    And now let’s move on to a must-do tour, a treat outside of everything you already know and learn about Turin: The secret, underground Turin!
    Torino Sotterranea is a fascinating tour that allows you to discover the hidden and lesser-known side of the city. It is a guided itinerary that will take you through a network of tunnels, secret passages, catacombs and air raid shelters located under the streets and buildings of Turin.
    Many of the underground tunnels date back to Roman times and were initially created as aqueducts; they evolved over the centuries: in the Middle Ages and Renaissance they were used for military and defense purposes. Turin was a fortified city, and the undergrounds offered safe routes for secret travel. During World War II many of these structures were adapted as air raid shelters to protect against bombing and remain a poignant testimony.
    The main points of this tour are definitely:

    • Pietro Micca Gallery:
      this is one of the most significant points of the tour. The gallery is named after Pietro Micca, a local hero who sacrificed his life to save Turin during the French siege of 1706. Here you can see the defensive structures and passageways used by the soldiers.
    • Consolata Crypt:
      Located beneath the Church of the Consolata, this crypt offers a striking view of underground religious architecture.
    • Catacombs and burial areas:
      some sections of the tour include visits to ancient burial areas and catacombs that tell the story of religious Turin and its ancient inhabitants.
    • Air raid shelters:
      these spaces, preserved as they were during the war, offer a glimpse into daily life during the bombing, with objects and furnishings from the period.
    • Roman tunnels:
      Parts of the ancient Roman tunnels are still accessible and show the advanced engineering of the time.

    Tours last about 3 hours and offer a mysterious and fascinating atmosphere, with soft lighting and historic settings that will transport you back in time.
    Tours are usually organized by local tour agencies and it is advisable to book in advance, especially during busy tourist periods.
    One of the most reputable tour operators offering the Underground Turin tour is Somewhere Tour & Events. This operator offers a detailed and fascinating experience of the city’s underground with its expert guides who will provide you with an engaging and impactful narrative.
    You can book online through their website or contact them for more information and availability.
    Phone: +39 011 668 0580
    E-mail: info@somewhere.it
    Address: Via Po, 45, 10124 Turin
    I recommend booking in advance, wearing comfortable shoes and bringing a jacket…underground temperatures can be slightly cooler 😊

  • Focus Alta Langa Part II

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    Today we arrive at a different Alta Langa, one rich with stories and legends; it is a literary land, from Pavese to the peasant and partisan life experience of Fenoglio, a land for a journey into memory.

    Both Beppe and Cesare entrust this territory with the roots of a life and reveal its core, the peasant identity and the stubborn pride of working its land.

    In short, Alta Langa still amazes us; it is indeed a privileged destination!

    Santo Stefano Belbo, which in 2008 celebrated the centenary of the writer’s birth, is closely tied to Cesare Pavese. Here we find his birthplace, which today houses his letters, books, photographs, reviews of his books, and theses from around the world, and the workshop of his friend, the carpenter Nuto. Very little remains of that Santo Stefano Belbo, the one described in “The Moon and the Bonfires”: a few houses and the Belbo river, which ceaselessly divides the two hills of Gaminella and Salto, where Pavese used to swim as a boy.

    Visit the ancient and first parish church of Saints James and Christopher, dating back to the 14th century; nearby is the Cesare Pavese Study Center with an annexed library where his works can be consulted in reading rooms and through audiovisuals.

    This is one of the most renowned areas for Moscato, a territory that spans 52 municipalities in the provinces of Cuneo, Asti, and Alessandria. Here, a Moscato with an aroma of excellent finesse and intensity is produced.

    A tip for you: if you want to taste a memorable Alta Langa, go to the Marcalberto Winery and let me know what your taste buds tell you!

    While Pavese traveled across Italy for life and work, Beppe Fenoglio, author of one of the finest novels of 20th-century Italian literature, La Malora, remained tied for life to Alba, his hometown. The partisan Johnny longed for its red roofs while fighting in the woods that kept him away.

    For Fenoglio, the Tanaro river, Murazzano, San Benedetto Belbo, and Bossolasco are childhood places and the stage for his stories. They are the myth, the roots, the land.

    BeppeFenoglio_laMalora
    fenoglio
    malora-lavoro-campi

    Cascina del Pavaglione

    One of the quintessential Fenoglian places is San Bovo di Castino, the Cascina del Pavaglione. This farmhouse, which serves as the backdrop for “La Malora”, has become, over time, an archetype that encapsulates that feeling of despair, poverty, resignation, the hardship of daily life: the feeling of a generation, his generation. Fenoglio deserves credit for having been able to give voice to it through the stories of his characters.

    Besides Pavaglione, which takes us back to the days of La Malora, you can follow in the footsteps of “partisan Johnny” by visiting Mango and its surroundings; you can move to Murazzano where you will find the Beppe Fenoglio Literary Park; or retrace the path of Agostino, the protagonist of La Malora, and reach San Benedetto Belbo.

    Looking at this Langa today, with its renowned wines, restored farmhouses, enogastronomic tourism, truffles, a dynamic and certainly enterprising Langa, a land of widespread wealth… it seems impossible that only a few decades ago it could have coincided with a depressed, harsh territory, difficult to live and work in, vividly described by Fenoglio in all his works.

    BeppeFenoglio_laMalora_lavoro

  • Focus Alta Langa – Part I

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    At the border between sky and earth lies Alta Langa, a border region between the provinces of Cuneo, Asti, and Alessandria, a region suspended between 600 and 900 meters of altitude, where the majesty of the Alps meets the harmony of the hills. Here, the fusion of nature, culture, and centuries-old tradition offers a glimpse of authentic and untouched Piedmontese life. The hills of Alta Langa can be considered a still little-known territory, but always of great impact. It is the “Other Langa,” a place where the altitude marks the transition from the rows of vines of great wines to hazelnut groves, pastures, and wooded areas that smell of the sea breeze in a succession of ideal itineraries for slow tourism.

    On these hills stretching towards Liguria, there is an authentic and enjoyable territory in every season: cool and breezy in summer thanks to the “Marin” (a wind from Liguria), covered in snow in winter, and colored by the warm hues of the foliage in autumn.

    However, man has not given up on cultivating vines and, with much hard work (typical of this land), has built dry stone walls: the terraces are a powerful testimony of this.

    With stones recovered in laborious paths from the rivers, they built warm and welcoming stone houses that are the pride of rural architecture.

    Enchanting and endless panoramas take you through its valleys and invite you to look up where small villages dominate the infinity with their towers and fortresses; in the background, the Alps!

    Whatever route you decide to take, Alta Langa is a natural amphitheater dotted with entire stone hamlets brightened by the red of the roof tiles.

    Not yet beaten by mass tourism, Alta Langa is the ideal place for stays in nature, greenery, and relaxation, and definitely invites slow and reflective tourism.

    Every community contributes to the biodiversity and cultural richness of the Union, creating a unique matrix of stories and landscapes.

    One of the most interesting projects highlighting the sustainability of the Unione Montana dell’Alta Langa is certainly “BlossomingCities,” where the focus is on protecting pollinators, the guardian angels of biodiversity and pillars of agricultural production.

    Consider that 75% of the world’s major food crops and 85% of wild plants depend on insect pollinators! As we all know, many pollinator species are undergoing drastic declines, and the loss and degradation of natural habitats are just some of the factors of this decline; urbanization and the lack of green areas are considered one of the main threats. Among the project’s partners: the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, the Institute for the Promotion and Certification of Agri-Food Products, the Center for Research and Technology in Aragon, and the University of Daugavpils.

    Alta Langa, with its invaluable heritage of nature, culture, and tradition, will lead you to explore it with the same slowness with which it has evolved. It is an invitation to rediscover, among its villages and landscapes, that human and earthly connection that daily noise tends to make us forget. If you seek an experience that nourishes the soul and awakens the senses, Alta Langa is waiting to be discovered!

  • Discover Alta Langa

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    Between tradition, gastronomy, and art – our complete guide

    Visit Alta Langa with our complete guide. Read tips to find the best restaurants like Cesare in Albaretto Torre, the open-air art of Bergolo, and the delights of Cascina Azii in Feisoglio. Everything you need to know for an unforgettable visit amidst history, culture, and unique flavors.

    Albaretto Torre

    It’s difficult, very difficult, but if you manage to book a table at Cesare https://ristorantedacesare.it/ , Cesare Giaccone…like James Bond! Today it’s easy to tell the poetry of noble wines and renowned cuisine, but none of what is now Langa would have existed without him, the gruff but authentic trailblazer. Since 1981, when he finally returned home after a thousand experiences and torments, his fame has become as solid as stone, his name a legend.

    Bossolasco

    We have already talked about it extensively. But I’ll give you two tips here as well! If you want to buy hazelnuts, a stone’s throw from Cascina Facelli, you will find the Azienda Agricola Casa vecchia. https://www.casavecchia1846.it/

    If you want to eat not just well, but very well!… Drogheria di Langa is the place for you: excellent wine list, unparalleled kindness, carefully prepared but genuine food, and, to top it off, an environment attentive to the smallest details, a small jewel in the center of the town https://www.drogheriadilanga.it/

    The village dairy, Cascina Abate, http://www.bossolascolanghe.it/abate/index.html

    will amaze you with its excellent cheeses! Bring a cooler bag, they even vacuum pack them for you 😉

    Bergolo

    The “stone village”! All the houses have been restored using sandstone and even the asphalt has been replaced. It is a true open-air contemporary art gallery https://www.comune.bergolo.cn.it/Eventi the village, in fact, boasts dozens of artworks left by artists on the facades of buildings and in the most hidden and evocative corners. It is the smallest municipality in Italy to earn the orange flag, a tourist-environmental quality recognition awarded by the Italian Touring Club. The renaissance occurred around 1970 and was a real gamble. Surely the characteristic tenacity of the old “Langhetti” made it a major tourist destination. Bergolo is also part of the Authentic Villages of Italy, a network of 10 municipalities that have decided to make themselves known and appreciated for their environmental sustainability policies. Do not miss two historical-artistic testimonies of particular importance: the Romanesque chapel of San Sebastiano (12th century) and the parish church (17th century).

    The Romanesque Chapel of San Sebastiano, located in the cemetery, is also worth a visit! It is a place of extraordinary scenic beauty.

    A highly evocative panoramic space is the “Ezra Pound Memorial”, established in 2003, Nine stones painted by artist Beppe Schiavetta, in a green meadow, bounded, chase each other in memory of the poet.

    Feisoglio

    If during your wanderings you pass by here, stop at Cascina Azii https://cascinaazii.it/. You will throw away your suitcases and fill your trunk with their handcrafted hazelnut-based sweets.

    Mombarcaro

    Also known as Monte delle Barche: from here, from the Summit of the Langhe, on clear days you can see the Ligurian Sea, an incredible view! It was once protected by high walls, of which a medieval arch from the 14th century remains, but it still retains one of the most interesting historic centers of Alta Langa. Take a walk through the streets of the village, paved with red bricks, to discover sundials, many characteristic corners, and chimneys with strange shapes.

    Murazzano

    it is one of the main centers of Alta Langa. The altitude at which it stands (739 meters), the proximity of the, the grassy lands that surround it give the town a mountainous air that distinguishes it from other nearby centers. The town is dominated by a medieval tower from 1300, once certainly connected to the castle. The main street leads to the square surrounded by arcades and at the end of it stands the façade of the parish church of San Lorenzo, enriched by the 14th-century bell tower. Of artistic interest is also the sanctuary of the Madonna di Hai, erected in the first half of the 17th century.

    For edible souvenirs, don’t miss the Chiesa family’s dairy. https://murazzano.live/ in Murazzano, it is truly a magical place and in every cheese you taste, you will feel the passion of this family that raises the “Murazzano sheep”, a native breed, solely responsible for Murazzano DOP Cheese.

    Serravalle Langhe

    there are two restaurants I recommend: La Coccinella, http://www.trattoriacoccinella.com/

    slow food presidium, meticulously curated room, excellent wines, and a bit of revisitation in the tradition; and Trattoria Belvedere: home cooking on your plate in a small village with a breathtaking view. https://www.belvederetrattoria.it/ristorante/

    Until next time!

  • Discover Bossolasco: “The Pearl of the Langhe”

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    Discover Bossolasco: “The Pearl of the Langhe”

    Nestled in the fascinating hills of Alta Langa, in the heart of Piedmont, lies Bossolasco, a village rich in charm and history, known as the “Pearl of the Langhe” or the “Town of Roses”. Come visit the wonders of Bossolasco, from its medieval history to the fairy-tale landscapes that attract visitors from all over the world every year.

    History and Heritage

    The history of Bossolasco dates back to the Middle Ages when it was a crossing point for pilgrims and merchants. Its historical roots can be seen in the perfectly preserved architectures and traditions that continue to live thanks to the commitment of the local community. The village is a real web of cobblestone alleys, ancient churches, and stone houses that tell a millennia-old story.

    The Town of Roses

    Bossolasco is certainly distinguished for its historical heritage, but also for its extraordinary natural beauty. It is nicknamed the “Town of Roses” for its streets and squares adorned with roses of various species, which bloom fragrantly from May to July, creating a true festival of colors and scents. This has given life to an annual festival, “The Festival of Roses”, which celebrates its beauty and variety, attracting gardening enthusiasts, photographers, and artists from everywhere.

    Attractions and Activities

    Bossolasco offers activities for all tastes: from hiking enthusiasts who can explore the trails that wind through vineyards, hazelnut groves, and woods, to those who wish to taste the local typical products such as cheeses, truffles, and fine wines. The “Alba Truffle Fair”, in particular, is a must-see event that celebrates one of the culinary symbols of the region.

    Local Gastronomy

    The cuisine of Bossolasco reflects the richness of the land with dishes ranging from tajarin with sausage ragù to spoon desserts based on hazelnuts. The village’s restaurants offer menus that are a journey to discover the authentic flavors of the Langhe, always accompanied by a selection of local wines that enhance every dish.

    Have lunch or dinner at the “Drogheria di Langa”, a jewel in the town. The kindness, the decor, the attention to ingredients, and the wine list make it a Must Do.

    Staying in Bossolasco

    What can we say! Obviously 😊 staying at Cascina Facelli is the ideal choice! This ancient farmhouse, carefully renovated and attentive to detail, is located a few minutes from Bossolasco and offers a warm welcome in a designer setting. With only three exclusive suites, it ensures absolute tranquility and a breathtaking view of the Langhe hills. Book your stay at Cascina Facelli now and let yourself be enveloped by the timeless charm of Bossolasco and its wonders.

    Bossolasco is a jewel of Piedmont that deserves to be discovered. Whether you’re looking for history, nature, or excellent gastronomy, Bossolasco offers an unforgettable experience.

    Visit our website for more information and to find out more about how to make your visit to Bossolasco an unforgettable experience.